Bangkok’s Chinatown is bursting with street food day and night, so if you don’t have an idea of where you’re going to eat, it can all get a bit overwhelming. Luckily while you’re trying to figure it all out, you don’t have to go hungry. If you’re heading to Chinatown on the Chaopraya Express Boat, which is a very common way of travelling there, there’s a perfect spot to get your first snack right by Ratchawong Pier.
Come out of the exit and walk straight and about 50 meters up on your right hand side, next to the 7-11, you’ll find Kahnom Chip A Liang, a street food stall selling khanom jeeb or sui mai as they are more commonly known worldwide. For anyone not familiar with sui mai they are steamed, open topped dumplings stuffed with pork or prawns or both.
You can’t miss the big red sign and the happy owner. The writing is in Thai, but it’s not too hard to work out; 3 baht each for pork and 5 baht each for prawn. The khanom jeeb are sold in multiples of 10, so it would be 30 baht for ten pork, 60 baht for 20 and so on.
Now all you’ve got to do is pick from pork or prawn, well actually you don’t have to choose, you could have the best of both worlds a get a mixture! The pork are the ones in the yellow wrappers, and the prawn ones are orange. If your Thai isn’t up to scratch, you can just point to the colour you want and hold up ten fingers!
Khanom Jeeb can be found all over the streets of Bangkok, so why do I like these dumplings so much? It’s because nearly all the khanom jeeb in Thailand has the same generic taste as if they have been mass produced and cooked from frozen. These are homemade, and it shows. I prefer the pork dumplings; they’re packed with meat and chives and are really juicy. The prawn dumplings are still good, but for my money, I think the pork ones are just a little better. If I have one complaint, it’s that the filling itself is perhaps lacking a little seasoning. This isn’t really a problem as you have soy sauce, sweet chilli sauce and crispy garlic on top of the khanom jeeb but if you don’t like any these, you could find them a little bland.
All in all, you if you’re a dumpling lover like myself, you could do a lot worse than a trip to this little street stall.
Khanom Chip A Liang’s hours on Google say they are open every day from 2-11 pm, but I have seen them open as early as 11 am some days.