5 Great Places in Bangkok For Khao Kha Moo – Thai Pork Leg Stew – ข้าวขาหมู
Khao kha moo (ข้าวขาหมู) – stewed pork leg on rice is my ultimate Thai comfort dish. This isn’t a ‘Top Five Places to Eat’ post, there are far too many shops selling khao kha moo for that. This is a list of five of my personal favourites, in no particular order, that won’t leave you disappointed.
1. Khao Kha Mu Bang Wa Shop – Bang Wa.
Here’s one for all of you living in Western Bangkok; Khao Kha Mu Bang Wa Shop is worth the 10 minute walk from Bang Wa BTS. It’s a classic Thai – Chinese shop house serving unbelievably good Khao Kha Moo. The broth is excellent, as is the homemade chilli vinegar. I especially love how happy the staff are when they see a westerner enjoying their food! The one slight problem I do have with this place is that the eggs are always overcooked for my liking, to the point they have that black ring around the yolk. It’s a minor detail, though, considering how good the meat and sauce is.
2. Khao Kha Moo Sai Tua. (editors choice)
We couldn’t have a list of khao kha moo shops in Bangkok and not include somewhere in Chinatown, could we? Khao Kha Moo Sai Tua is a street stall on Charoen Krung Road, half on the street and half tucked down an alleyway, where you can sit and eat if you’re lucky enough to get a seat. The khao kha moo here different to any other one I’ve had as they cook beans in with the broth to create a really hearty, filling dish that’s a lot thicker than the average pork leg stew in Thailand. Couple that with the fact that the broth itself is ridiculously rich and you’ve got yourself possibly the best khao kha moo on the list! I’d definitely give their tofu a miss as it was pretty tasteless when I tried it.
3. Pork Leg Stew Talat Somdet – ขาหมูตลาดสมเด็จ
Situated west of the river on Somdet Chao Phraya Road next to the beautiful Wat Phitchaya Yatikaram Worawiharn temple, this small old-school shop house churns out plate after plate of excellent khao kha moo to a packed crowd of locals on a daily basis. It gets especially busy on weekends so be prepared to queue. The khao kha moo here is less spice driven than some of the others on the list, but equally delicious. The sauce is extremely rich and soy sauce-heavy. They also serve excellent braised pork intestines and surprisingly good stewed tofu. Their picked greens are some of the best I’ve had.
You can read the full review of Pork Leg Stew Talat Somdet here.
4. Khao Kha Moo Truk Sung – Pratunam and Bang Rak.
I was taken to Khao Kha Moo Truk Sung in Pratunam by my friend, Eddie Yii from Stranger in Bangkok and I wasn’t disappointed. This is, without doubt, one of the best spots for khao kha moo in town. The sauce here isn’t too sweet, not very oily but still extremely flavoursome. Truk Sung also sells braised intestines which I’m told were also exceptionally clean (I’m no expert). The pork stew comes with a free bitter gourd soup which is actually not bitter at all, it is really clear and refreshing. Truk Sung is located by Super Rich money exchange opposite Centralworld, which, incidentally, has the best exchange rates for tourists in Bangkok. There is also a branch of Truk Sung in Bang Rak that’s equally delicious, you can read the full review from Chow Traveller here.
5. Kha Moo Jae Yai – Krungthonburi BTS.
The second true street food place on the list, Khao Moo Jae Yai has been serving hungry office workers at the ThaSri Building for the last six years. The owners tell me their mother has been cooking the same recipe for 40 years! The pork stew is very well spiced here, slightly sweet and served with my favourite runny eggs. They also sell moo tod (fried battered pork) so you can get a mix of fried and stewed pork in the same bowl. You can also pick up some very good southern Thai curries here like their excellent panang. The only downside to this place is that they aren’t open weekends. If you live on the Silom line of the BTs or your staying west of the river, though, they are well worth a look.
Here’s a map to Kha Moo Jae Yai.